Sharp points, neo-armor or punk culture… An overview of the jewelry highlights that were spotted on the catwalks of the fashion weeks in New York, London, Milan and Paris.
Definitely the strong trend of the season. Faced with the torments of history and raging climate scares, designers are responding with jewels shaped as ramparts. In view of the metal-coated hands from the Courrèges show, but also the pointed chokers from Acne Studios or Diesel, not to mention the brass knuckles from the Valentino show. A tempting counteroffensive, in short.
Logomania-style jewelry, which has become essential in hybrid homes, competes with creativity this season. In this game, Chanel seduces with a clear crystal reinterpretation of its hula hoop bag, while Valentino offers a graphic and pop take on its signature V.
A sure thing that has highlighted every silhouette of Saint Laurent runways since Anthony Vaccarello took charge of the Parisian house, the Spring/Summer 2023 jewelry has once again set the tone. Above, the same sleeve effect already highlighted last season, this time with a special attention to wearing these bracelets that sit on top of the garment and not underneath. An adornment that also takes over the shows by Junya Watanabe, Rick Owens or Off-White.
A visual legacy of the punk culture that raged on the catwalks in Fall-Winter 2022-2023, this season piercing offers a just excess by occupying all the light. Like a lip jewelry at the Balmain and Messika Haute Joaillerie catwalk shows, when Balenciaga or Giambattista Valli opt for face jewelry. An illusion, of course.
A deluge of cabochons of different sizes and colors… This is the pretty mix & match that Louis Vuitton offers this season in chokers or XXL earrings. A spirit of heritage revisited in a more contemporary sense of upcycling that can also be found literally at Giambattista Valli in Paris or Carolina Herrera in New York. A single catchphrase: dare the extreme volume setting the powder on fire.
Spirit of the Madonna
This is the project that gets a lot of ink spilled even though it’s not even finished yet. Expected next year’s biopic about and directed by Madonna (starring Julia Garner in the title role) is already bringing to light the essence of her iconic style. And especially his crucifix pendants from the period Like a prayer which we therefore find this season at Blumarine, Gucci or Dolce & Gabbana. A divine gem that, like all trends, is bound to be tinged with a very early 2000s aura for some seasons: half Madonna, half Sarah Michelle Gellar Cruel intentions So.